
GIRLS' CLOTHING CONTEST 

TEXAS HIGH SCHOOLS 
PLANS FOR 1919-1920 



ANNIE WEBB BLANTON 

State Superintendent of Public Instruction 

LILLIAN PEEK 

Assistant Director of Home Economics Education 
and Director of Girls' Clothing Contest 




BULLETIN 109 NOVEMBER. 1919 



ISSUED BY 

THE DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION 
STATE OF TEXAS 



GIRLS' CLOTHING CONTEST 

TEXAS HIGH SCHOOLS 
PLANS FOR 1919-1920 



ANNIE WEBB BLANTON 

State Superintendent of Public Instruction 

LILLIAN PEEK 

Assistant Director of Home Economics Education 
and Director of Girls' Clothing Contest 




BULLETIN 109 NOVEMBER. 1919 



ISSUED BY 

THE DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION 
• STATE OF TEXAS 



A315-1119-5M-L 



•TV 



Wl •f *• 
DEC 11 



FOREWORD 

Two years of experience in lecturing* on the subject of Appropriate 
Clothing for High School Girls has revealed the need of a more defi- 
nite and concrete method of approaching the dress problem, which has 
attained considerable magnitude among the girls in our high schools — 
and may I say-— also on our streets and in our business establishments. 
It has been my observation that the girls themselves have not been 
wholly unconscious of the existence of this problem and have welcomed 
help and guidance in its solution. They have elected the domestic art 
course in high school for this very purpose. Occasionally it has proved 
effectual, often it has not. Occasionally they have learned something 
of the art of good dressing, in connection with the fundamentals of 
sewing, more often they have learned the fundamental stitches, but 
have continued to imitate fashion in the same haphazard manner, sat- 
isfying neither themselves nor their observers. 

Parent-Teachers' Associations and Women's Clubs have done some 
commendable work in trying to curb the tendencies toward ridiculous 
and silly modes in dress wholly unsuited to school wear. This has re- 
verted generally to contests between the Georgette crepe and the middy 
blouse, and silk and lisle hose. These attempts at a solution of the 
girls' clothing problem, while prompted by the most admirable motive, 
have failed to accomplish the desired results, because of the lack of a 
constructive educational program, conducive to better taste in dress, 
and the absence of a system of checking and measuring the results in 
a manner satisfactory to mother and daughter, school and society. 

In the light of the above experience and with the authority of the 
State Department of Education, a constructive program in the form 
of a Girls' Clothing Contest is hereby presented for the consideration 
of the high schools of Texas. 

Lillian Peek, 
Director of Girls' Clothing Contest. 

*From the Department of Extension, College of Industrial Arts, Denton, 
Texas. 



GIRLS' CLOTHING CONTEST-TEXAS HIGH SCHOOLS 



AIMS OF THE CONTEST 

A. To raise the standards of dress among- the girls of high school 
age by considering, not detached problems, but the harmony of each 
article made with its wardrobe environment, the occasion, and the 
budget. For example, a dress will be considered not simply as a dress, 
but together with all its accessories, underwear, shoes, hose, and hat, 
and with reference to the occasion ajid the budget. 

B. To place the Domestic Art work in our high schools on a more 
practical, consistent, and artistic basis, by emphasizing the principles of 
good taste in dress rather than permitting and fostering the imitation 
of fashion. 

C. To increase interest in the art of good dressing, which comes 
through the application of art principles to dress, and through controlled 
self-expressio2i. 

D. To encourage the subordination of clothing to the efficiency, sat- 
isfaction, happiness, and health of the individual. 

NOTE TO CONTESTANTS AND TEACHEKS 

Do not be discouraged if you cannot take advantage of all the sug- 
gestions in this year's contest plan. Enter the best work of the year. 
If you cannot enter all the feature articles, enter one of them and a 
general exhibit. If this year we have a good contest, next year we can 
have a rpuch better one. The opportunity of seeing the work of other 
schools will be invaluable. Eemember the contest is new everywhere, 
and the opportunity is the same for all. 

CONTEST PLANS 

Entering the Contest 

1. Enlistment in the contest must be voluntary on the part of the 
school, and the domestic art class in the school. 

The approval and the cooperation of the superintendent of schools 
must first be secured. 

2. Single individuals cannot enlist m Dv- contest independently of 
Domestic Art classes. The Domestic Art class must enter as a unit. 

3. The contest will be held in the county, if only one school enters. 
(Different classes in the same school may enter the county contest.) 

4. Entries. AH articles entered in the general exhibit must be 
made by the girl entering them, and the accessories for the contest 
features made or chosen by the girl. (The hat, shoes, and hose need 
not necessarily be new.) 

Contest Features 

The special features of the contest will be the judging of the follow- 
ing: 



— 6— 

(a) A school dress for fall or spring, worn by members of the class 
for whom the garments were made or chosen, together with all acces- 
sories, underwear, shoes, hose, and hat. 

(b) A school dress for winter with accessories, Judged as worn. 

(c) A graduation dress and accessories, judged as worn, or 

(d) A summer dress with accessories. Suitable for a high school 
girl's social events. Judged as worn (for girls not graduating). 

(e) A thousand-Avord pajoer on the minimum wardrobe require- 
ments for girls in different occupations. Each girl may choose a type 
and illustrate Math magazine clippings, etc., giving the cost of each item 
and the total cost of the wardrobe. The estimates can be made from the 
price of commercial articles and should be as nearly correct as possible. 

(f) An eight-hundred-word theme on the subject: "Clothing 
Standards in My Com.munity." The aim of this paper .is to have the 
girls think out, somewhat ideally, the changes which might be wrought 
in the average family wardrobe, were the principles of good taste 
adopted as a guide. Good word pictures can better be drawn by con- 
sidering specific cases — names should not be used. 

FoTE. — One or more contest features may be entered by the individ- 
ual student. 

Exhibit. — A general exhibit of articles made in Domestic Art classes 
is recommended in connection with the contest. The opportunity 
afforded the girls for seeing the work of other schools will be worth 
the effort put forth in arranging exhibits. (This exhibit may be made 
regardless of the features if so desired.) 

Banners. — County, District, and State Banners will be presented to 
the school exhibiting the best all-around Domestic Art work, including 
the special papers called for in the County, District, and State Con- 
tests, respectively. 

The Units of the Contest 

1. The County. — The first contest will be lield, preferably, in the 
school at the county seat. If the county committee prefers some other 
meeting place, this may be arranged by this committee. (See methods 
of conducting the contest.) 

2. TJw Cov.qressional district. — The contest will be held at some 
central point in the district, and perferably in a school building. The 
place will be decided upon by the district committee. 

3. The State.— The final contest will be held at the Capitol in 
Austin. 

Method of Conducting the Contest 

1. The county contest will be held at the county seat and under the 
direction of the County Contest and Exhibits Committee, and honors 
will be conferred upon successful contestants by the committee, or by 
some person chosen by the committee. The county banner will be pre- 
sented to the school exhibiting the best all-rou.nd domestic art work in 
the county. It will be geographically impossible for the State Cloth- 
ing Contest Director to be present at the county meetings. 

2. Congressional District Contest. — Successful contestants in the 
County Contest will be sent to the Congressional District Contest with 



— 7— 

the prize-winning articles, and the exhibit of the school winning the 
banner for the best all-round work. 

Honors will be conferred by the District Committee or by some per- 
son chosen by this committee and the district banner presented to the 
school in the district exhibiting the best all-round work in Domestic 
Art. 

3. The State Confesif. —Successful district contestants will be sent 
to the State meeting to be held at the Capitol in Austin, with the 
prize- winning articles in the district and the banner exhibit from the 
district. The State honors will be conferred and the State banner will 
be presented by the State committee or by some one provided by this 
committee. This final meeting in the State will be conducted in con- 
nection with a program of general interest. Speakers of national rep- 
utation and speciaUsts along the particular lines of thought empha- 
sized by the contest will be given imjDortant places on the program. 

The Time 

Of necessity the contests will all be conducted toward the end of the 
school year in order that the work may be completed according to the 
course of study. The definite time will be announced later, and will 
be decided upon by the committees in charge, in cooperation with the 
State Contest Director. 

Expenses 

Naturally there will be expenses connected with a contest of this 
scope. It will be necessary for each school to meet its own expenses. 
Donations from business establishments or private individuals or local 
clubs (Parent-Teachers Associations or Federated Clubs, or other inter- 
ested clubs, or groups of persons) may be secured by the committees in 
charge. 

Traveling Expenses 

Traveling expenses must be met by the individuals in the county, dis- 
trict and State contests, unless it can be arranged otherwise locally. It 
is suggested that the school arrange to meet the Austin expenses of the 
successful district contestants. The local clubs may be glad to help 
in this. 

Style Show 

A Style Show, of the garments made in school, may be conducted 
previous to, or in connection with the County Contest. A small ad- 
mission fee may be charged to help in meeting the expenses of the con- 
test. Even though the admission charge may not be necessary, the Style 
Show will be worth while as a community enterprise, if well organized 
and conducted in connection with a good music and reading program, 
and perhaps s short address. 

OEGANIZATION 

1. In the School 

The Domestic Art Teacher, by virtue of her position, becomes the 
chairman of the contest for each school entering. 



A contest committee may be appointed by the chairman or elected by 
each Domestic Art class in the contest, to work for the interest and 
cociperation of the entire class in making its contributions or entries 
represent the best work of the class. 

In the event that a Style Show is given, a committee might be ap- 
pointed i)V the school chairman to work in cooperation with the above 
committee in making it a success. 

2. In the County and District 

(a) The State Director of the Girls' Clothing Contest will appoint 
a con)mittee of three for each county and each district entering the 
contest. Whenever possible, a Domestic Art Teacher, a Federated Club 
member, and a member of a Coimcil of Mothers or Parent-Teacher As- 
sociation will constitute the committee. The duties of this committee 
will be to work in cooperation with the Contest Director in assembling 
exhibits, giving publicity to plans among the schools concerned, and 
meeting the financial obligations in every possible way. 

The chairman of each committee has the power of appointing such 
sub-committees as may seem necessary for successfully conducting the 
contest. A finance committee and a committee on arrangements may 
be verv^ necessary sub-committees. 

3. In the State 

A State committee will be appointed by the State Director of the 
Girls' Clothing Contest, to work in cooperation with the Director 
throughout the contest. It will be the special duty of this committee 
to make arrangements for the State Contest in the Capitol and to at- 
tend to the details of this meeting. The State expenses will be met 
through the efforts of this committee. ' 

Note. — The State Contest Director will be glad upon request to ad- 
vise ■with the county and district committees relative to methods of 
procedure. 

SUGGESTIONS WHICH MAY HELP IN PREPAEING FOR THE 

CONTEST 

1. Consider the effect of dress on one's observers: 

(a) As to harmony of color, texture, style or line, and in- 

dividuality. Does it express elegant simplicity Or the 
ornate and commonplace? 

(b) Suitability of choice to occasion in durability, style, 

color, cost, and budget. 

(c) Effect on the physical lines of the body in case of shoes, 

and corsets producing or reducing defects. 

(d) Modes of hair-dressing in keeping with type and di'ess^ 

brought out by class discussion. 

2. Consider the effect of dress on the wearer: 

(a) As it reacts on general disposition and efficiency. 

(b) In resulting degree of satisfaction, happiness, and health. 

3. Consider the effect of dress on future generations. 



4. Consider the changes of clothing necessary for health and hap- 

piness. 

5. Consider the apportionment of the income so that the clothing 

budget is somewhat standardized for the family. (Only 
higher classes can go deeply into this, but some dis- 
cussion may bring the idea of "fairness" in division 
of income to class consciousness even with a first year 
class. 

(a) What is a house-daughter's just allowance for clothes 

if her family consists of father, mother, one high school 
brother, two elementarv grade sisters and the family 
income is $1,000, $20bo', $5000, $10,000 annually? 
What circumstances would influence the allowance for 
each member? 

(b) Methods of meeting the needs of the individual within 

her budget allowanc^e, even though allowance is small. 

(1) Conventional choices which will last more 

than one year. 

(2) Consideration of the harmony of each pur- 

chase with the existing wardrobe or the new 
wardrobe desired. 

(3) Utilization of out-of-date garments, of good 

materials, for renovating and making over. 

SOME ATTEIBUTES OF A WELL DEESSED WOMAN 

A well dressed woman does not allow her clothes to dominate her 
personality, as is often the case when quick purchases are made. She 
rather plans and buys every article carefully and thoughtfully in order 
that the complete wardrobe may be combined in different ways, each 
combination producing a pleasing picture when worn. Each garment 
should serve its purpose in an unobtrusive yet pleasing sort of way and 
give both the wearer and her observers a feeling that it does just what 
it is supposed to do, and that this end could not be accomplished quite 
so well in any other way. For instance, when a hat is worn it should 
look as if it were going to stay upon the head and have a good time in 
the staying. A girl or woman with good taste never wears conspicuous 
clothing on the street, to church, or for traveling. The combination 
woni may be very interesting and admit of study but not until the per- 
sonality of the wearer has impressed itself upon you. If you see white 
shoes first, red trimming next and flowers on the hat third, you have 
little time left to see the dark skirt, to say nothing of the face of the 
wearer, provided you are meeting her on the street, and the whole effect 
is "jazzy." If she sits opposite you on the train, or, worse still, in 
church, the distracting effect is likely to lessen your ability to concen- 
trate on the service, and certainly to appreciate the really fine personal 
qualities the wearer may possess. 

Study shoes, hose, hat, camisole trimmings and other dress accessories 
with the point in mind of enhancing personal charm in a subtle way. 
You will observe that the appropriately dressed woman is the woman 
who is sure of herself, and able to meet, physically unhampered, what- 



—10— 

ever situation presents it?elf. She is not often self-conscious, and is 
generally inconspicuous, yet happy, in her environment. 

The well dressed woman is not necessarily the M^oman with the largest 
wardrobe. On the other hand, she is often the one with a very small 
wardrobe. She has chosen so carefully the garments she has that they 
are not only a joy to her, but to her observers as well, each time she 
wears them. One never tires of a' beautiful picture, whether it be a 
well dressed individual against a natural background, or a painted can- 
vas on the wall. 

For the school girl and business girl, neatness and comfort are two 
of the most desirable qualities. With these, individuality, interest, and 
style need not be lacking. There is little excuse for ugliness in any 
dress. The silhouette, which is the keynote to style, is of major impor- 
tance in planning the wardrobe. After the silhouette, individuality 
should be the guide in dressmaking or dress choosing; then materials 
which will look well as long as the dress will wear; then refined colors; 
then interest of line; trimming and combination with other garments 
follow in the line of importance. 

Eemember that the artistic costume is conservative. It does not im- 
press its every detail on its observers at one time. It admits of study 
as does any other beautiful picture. If lines or spots are created by 
trimming, those lines or spots must be necessar}^ to complete the pic- 
ture; that is, they must serve a purpose other than marking the position 
of seams. Too many ideas expressed in the costume result in confusion 
and lack of harmony in the completed picture. 

Good health, and habits of personal neatness are important attributes 
to dress. A good effect in dress depends as much upon the wearer as 
upon the dress itself. Poise, deep breathing, exercise, the right kind 
of food, proper bathing, and the care of the hair, complexion, teeth, and 
nails pay good interest on the time invested. The natural color of the 
complexion which comes from wholesome right living is much to be 
preferred to the artificial variety too often resorted to. 

Much more might be added if space in this plan would allow. 

SHOES 

It is a fact whether recognized or not, that the shoes worn by school 
girls and women in active life in general represent the farthest point 
of deviation from that something called '"good taste in dress," the 
reason for this deviation being a fallacy in the popular conception of 
what art in dress really is. AVhether they will admit it or not, women 
and girls wear the high French heels, either because they think they are 
more artistic or because someone else thinks they are more artistic, and 
they wear them often without giving a thought to whether or not they 
are appropriate to walk in or stand in ; and without considering their 
lines in relation to the art lines of the body, and how these lines are 
affected by walking, or standing, on heels two or three inches high. 
They persist in seeing the shoe as a unit and neglect to observe the con- 
tour of the foot within the shoe in its distortion. They disregard also 
the greater return by way of personal satisfaction, comfort, and happi- 
ness derived from being properly shod. They excuse themselves by the 



—11— 

assertion that they have very high arches, and just have to wear 
high heels. Feet are distorted and arches weakened by high heels. 
The ligaments of the lower leg become adjusted to them and con- 
sequently the pain of readjustment, to that which expresses intelli- 
gence and true beauty, is excruciating and may continue over two or 
three weeks. There is no foundation in art for the "spindle" or French 
heel, and about as little foundation for the body. It neither supports 
nor suggests a support for the body. 

The art student knows that there must be a proper support for all 
architectural creations. He does not design a column with a base one- 
sixth to one-half the column's width. Yet that is what we do when 
we put spindle heels on our shoes. And we do another thing — we place 
on the back of the foot an abnormal hump which must be observed and 
studied to be appreciated. And, more than both of these, we mar be- 
yond repair the natural and graceful carriage of the body. As a re- 
sult of wearing too high heels the body is thrown out of line and out 
of gear. It is unnaturally thrust forward and the carriage consequently 
becomes unnatural. By observation of the contour of the foot from 
the side or rear of the wearer ; and of the effect of the heel upon the lines 
of the foot, of the ankle and of the entire body, it will be noticed that 
an artificial and unnatural curve is introduced which is abrupt and 
exaggerated, as compared with the graceful curves of the back. If the 
French-heeled shoes are worn to any great extent, it will be observed 
also that practically every line in the body, including the lines of the 
face, have reacted in a manner opposed to true beauty. Let your own 
observation convince you whether or not there is real beauty in the 
structure of such a shoe when it is on the human foot. That off the 
foot it is artistic as a unit may be admitted. 

POSTERS 

Owing to the fact that very little has been published on the subject of 
shoes and heels and, consequently, there is little library authority on 
the subject, a special bulletin-board poster is being made and sent out 
for use in the schools. Statements* from favorite movie actresses, col- 
lege girls, notably well dressed women, artists, and famous men and 
women from various walks of life, will be sent from the State Depart- 
ment of Education. The first set of statements will be followed by 
others from time to time. 

An assembly period might well be taken by the superintendent, art 
teacher, or some other able person and the poster idea presented. A 
bulletin-board committee might be appointed, and space set aside on 
which they may post the statements systematically. This is a contest 
feature, yet it will be sent to any school on application, whether this 
school enters the contest or not. If art is taught in the school, the 
pupils might letter the "statements" and post them in some attractive 
form. 

*Credit is due Miss Irene Davidson, formerly Secretary of Extension at the 
College of Industrial Arts, for the "statement" idea, and for her success in 
getting responses from Margaret Deland, Elsie de Wolfe, Louis Homer, Mary 
Miles Minter, Mary Pickford, and Dr. Margaret V. Clark. Many other state- 
ments have been and are being added. 



—12— 
JUDGES 

The Judofes are to be appointed by the Director of the Girls' Clothing 
Contest, and only competent, trained, and fair-minded persons will be 
considered. If possible, judges of national reputation will be secured 
for the final contest. 

METTTOD OF JUDGING 

Score Cards 

Score cards rating the various jwints of excellence of the garments 
or articles to be judoed are included in this plan for the use of the 
teacher and student^ during the preparation for the contest. The judges 
will use the same cards in judging the finished articles as exhibited. 

Score card for complete attire of school girl. (Considering the dress 
and all its accessories in relation to each other and to the individual as 
she wears them.) 



Possible 
Score 



Points 
Deficient 



Actual 
Score 



1. Effect of the combination 

a. Harmony of line, color and texture 

b. Rythm of line and color 

c. Balance and spacing 

d. Interest in design as opposed to common- 

place 

2. Appropriateness to occasion 

a. Style 

b. Color 

c. Material 

d. Cost 

3. Ethics 

a. Modesty 

b. Protection 

c. Influence 

4. Workmanship 

Total 



30 



35 



15 



20 



100 



-13— 



The following score cards were adapted from Bulletin 28 of the Fed- 
eral Board for Vocational Education. 

Score Card for General Exhibit 





Possible 
Score 


Points Actual 
Deficient Score 


1. Suitability of article to purpose 


25 
10 
15 
20 
15 
10 
5 






2. Beauty and quality of the design 






3. Harmony of color and materials 






4. Symmetry and accuracy in cutting 






5. Perfection of stitches 






6. Neatness of finish : 






7.- Laundering possibilities 








' 




100 












Score Card for Dressmaking 




Possible 
Score 


Deficient 
Points 


Actual 
Score 


1. Design 

a. Line 


25 
15 

25 

15 
10 
10 






b. Color 




c. Suitability as to type and occasion 

d. Silhouette 




e. Originality and individuality 




2. Selection of material 






a. Color 




b. Suitability of texture as to use and age. . 

c. Trimming chosen to increase interest and 

avoid commonplace 




d. Durability 




e. Design in material as plaid, stripe or 
figure 




3. Technique 

a. Cutting 

b. Fitting 

c. Workmanship 






d. Neatness 




e. Pressing 




4. Hygiene 






a. Cut and construction 




b. Material 




c. Cleaning qualities 




5. Cost 






a. Value of money expended 

b. Standard of living 




c. Relationship of trimming to material .... 




6. Ethics 






a. Modesty 

b. Influence 












100 













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